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How long gown dress to Eliminate Cutting Underwires In case you were wondering, you can also make this adjustment in the opposite direction by decreasing the height of the bridge an upper cup, however, given the style lines of bras are carefully crafted for shaping and support, I don't recommend making an adjustment up or down by more than ⅜"!

All Orange Lingerie bra sewing patterns are designed swimwear manufacturer to use underwires and each style has a different neckline shape and center front height. This means the optimum underwire length varies by bra. Ordering a lot of bra underwires over the years I found that underwire lengths also vary, even when ordering the exact same wire. As you know, with bras, every ⅛" can make a difference!

For these reasons (plus a really costume manufacturer small studio!), I maintain a supply of longer wires and I cut them to the size that I want using this method. I always make sure that I have ½" extra room in the casing channel. This extra space, often called wire play, allows the underwires to move when the bra is on the body so that they are not forced through the casing channel.

I realize not everyone likes to or wants to cut their underwires so in this tutorial, I will show you how to avoid cutting underwires for your bra. In exchange for the convenience, there is a cost! The cost is that you must alter the pattern and along with it, the style lines of the bra.


The first step is to measure the wire line of the bra. The underwire sits ⅛" away from the underwire casing attachment line. For a full frame bra, this distance is measured outside the cup to frame seam line. For a frameless bra, like the Fenway bra shown below, this distance is measured inside the cup to frame seam line. The endpoint of the underwire at the underarm is below where any trim is attached and the endpoint at the center front is below where the wire casing will be stitched closed.

Next you need to take the measurement of the length of your underwire and add ½" for wire play.


For this example, let's say the pattern allows for 7½" for the underwires as measured above and your underwire plus the wire play amount measures 7⅞". This means you need to add ⅜" to the wire line for your underwires to fit into the casing without requiring you to cut them to size.

To add to the wire line, you will increase the height of the center front of the pattern. This needs to happen in two places: the bridge and the upper cup.

Starting with the bridge, follow the existing wire line and add the necessary ⅜" from the seam line. Remember, all pattern alterations are made from the seam line!

For the upper cup, follow the upper cup to bridge seam line and add that same ⅜". Then redraw the upper edge of your upper cup to correspond with the raised center front point.While you have increased the coverage of the bra along the neckline, you do not have to cut any wires!


Aug 11 '17 · 0 comments

Welcome halloween costumes outlet Racked Readers!Just contact me to set up an appointment and we can get started making the perfect bra for you!In the first meeting we discuss what you are looking for in a bra, take some measurements, determine the best style of bra for your figure and select the fabric and trimmings from my library of options. Subsequent meetings are for refining the fit of the bra and finally, delivery of the finished bra. You can read more about the custom bra making process on my blog here.

In case you do not read Racked Chicago, lingerie manufacturer china Orange Lingerie is included in their Complete Mapped Source of Where to Find Lingerie!In terms of what to expect from the bra making process, it generally takes four to five meetings to produce the first custom bra for a new client and I generally meet with clients once a week during the process. 

Even better than a fixed bricks and mortar location, I underwear manufacturer china go directly to my clients locations in the Chicago area for all consultations, measurements and fittings of their custom bra.

Aug 11 '17 · 0 comments

Beyond corsets wholesale Foam-Dome For those that still crave foam enhancement, you can still set yourself apart from the pre-molded crowd via foam that has been fitted to your contours. Yes, this is possible via a custom bra and occasionally I make bras using this method, especially when some extra support is called for via strapless styles. So while I don't use foam as a rule, it does have its place in my set of tools to make the best bra for each client.

I am just going wholesale halloween costumes to come out and say it. I don't like foam. Foam cups, that is.The other argument for foam comes from women who say they want foam to conceal their nipples and aereola. Well, I have found that a fitted cut and sew bra can also accomplish this depending on the fabric choice of course since the cup seam directly passes over the bust apex.

To me, seamless wholesale christmas costumes molded foam cups give all women the same rounded shape. Not only is it boring but it is unrealistic and not a good look for everyone. In defense of manufacturers, it is much easier to fit a wider variety of breast shapes using foam cups. Any fit issues with the cup of the bra are disguised under the "foam dome", as I call it, making it easier to sell more bras to a wider variety of shapes.

Foam is a relatively recent phenomenon in the history of bras. It started in the early 60s with advances in knit fabric fabric technology. It was not long before the process to produce seamless molded foam cups was perfected in the mid-1970s. Seamless molded foam cups came at a time when women wanted a smooth look under the fitted knit clothing of the time.

I have never really liked the "foam dome", I prefer the lightness and beauty of bras made from laces and silks compared to fabric wrapped around a sometimes weighty foam cup. There are more design possibilities with fabric bra cups (called "cut-and-sew" bras) as well, which from a designers perspective is much more interesting.

I completely understand that many women like the enhanced profile that can be achieved when the breasts are given a padded boost. However, I think a properly designed and fitted cut-and-sew bra should be the first step. Many women are surprised to find that when a bra fits properly and is put on the body correctly scooping the breasts out of the armpit and into the cup natural assets are enhanced. Also keep in mind that bra makers have several tools in the their design arsenal to help enhance breast size and shape without the use of any padding. Of course for a bigger boost strategically built in padding can do a lovely yet subtle job.

Aug 11 '17 · 0 comments